Thursday, October 18, 2012

Blogger's Block and our Southern Food Tour

Over the past week there have been a couple of instances when I sit down to blog about our home visit and I can’t seem to put anything into words. I guess they 'd call that Blogger’s Block. Well, whatever it is- I got it. We’ve been having a great time, but true to form, it has been a crazy blurry whirlwind of cities, and people, and food. It’s like I don’t have time to process one event, or digest a meal, before we’ve moved on to the next.
Since I left you last, I watched the LSU Tigers defend their home turf against the #3 South Carolina gamecocks. It was a heart-palpitation-causing game, but that's just part of being an LSU fan.
When the final seconds ran out, the stadium was still jam packed. That’s how close it was.
I was thrilled to spend the day in Baton Rouge with my husband’s family and two of my besties. It was a sweet time in one of my all-time favorite cities, with some of my all-time favorite people, watching my heart and soul play football on a Saturday Night. I totally bleed purple and gold and experiencing a live upset was such a thrill. Geaux Tigers!
P.S. Living in Scotland has totally rubbed off on me as evidenced by the fact that I ordered Jack and Coke at the tailgate. Somehow I subconsciously switched from a Beer girl to a Whisky girl overnight. Jonathan was so proud of meJ.

On Sunday we headed out early to Orange Beach, Alabama, where Jonathan’s parents just bought a 3 bedroom condo. It was great because my parents decided to come up for 2 days so we got some quiet and relaxing time with both sets of our parents.
There are two main groups of people in the world: Beach people and Lake people. I’m definitely in the latter category, but I have to admit that there is something quite soothing about the ocean. It’s been a stressful couple of months, and it was nice to sit on the patio and watch the waves roll in, and witness how Orange Beach got its name:
Talk about a sunset. The few we saw while there might even rival the Scottish sky.
For now it’s back in Covington where Jon and I are getting in some last minute shopping and rounds of golf before Jonathan heads back to Aberdeen for work. The shopping sprees are bringing back flashbacks of preparing our initial shipment, which is of course, inducing frequent and ridiculous panic attacks.
At times I feel like I'm about to have a schizophrenic psychotic break right there in Target, complete with auditory hallucinations. For instance, on one shoulder, I have a rational angel saying- ‘Laine, Scotland has plenty of candy to get you through’ and then on the other shoulder, I have a gluttonous devil saying ‘but these giant packs of peanut butter m&ms are 3 for $8’. It tears me up inside, it really does.

I’m having a great time and excited to spend the next week with my parents, sister, and nephews at Disney World and Universal Studios, but I am slightly jealous that Jonathan is headed home. I still have 8 days of travel ahead of me. 8 days of disjointed exercise routines and round-the-clock junk food. At this point in the trip I have gained 10 pounds. Yep, 10 pounds!!!!

I’m trying not to let it bother me but I am officially the heaviest I have ever been and yet people keep force feeding me Chinese, Greek, Cajun, Japanese and Mexican food. It’s making me anxious to return to my daily 7 mile forest jogs with Bailey and my diet of cereal and sandwiches. I guess that’s just what happens when you have to cram a year's worth of American cuisine into 3 weeks. And of course our 4 weeks of travel before leaving Scotland for the US didn’t help matters.

Any advice on how to stay healthy on the road? Jon and I are both struggling with this, especially since southerners apparently prove their love for you by inducing food comas and peer pressuring you into ordering the greasiest appetizer on the menu. Yep, maybe the peanut butter m&m purchase wasn’t such a good idea. But on the other hand, they were 3 for $8….

Friday, October 12, 2012

NEEDtoBREATHE

I’m not the biggest party animal. Nightclubs are really not my scene. But one thing I love love love is live music. A few weeks before we left Houston for Aberdeen, Needtobreathe (AKA my favorite band EVER…or at least for the past year) was playing at the House of Blues.

We originally planned to go, but as the date came nearer, we knew we just didn’t have the energy or the time to take a break from our ex-patriating to-do list. Instead we blared their albums on repeat while we sifted through all of our belongings and completed mounds of paperwork. They quickly became the soundtrack for our newest relocation adventure.

Shortly after arriving in Aberdeen, I noticed on the band’s facebook page that they were on a UK tour. I scooted over to their website to check out the dates and found out that the only time they’d be in Scotland was in Glasgow that very night. Since it was too late to make accommodations for the dogs and ourselves, we sadly missed another chance to see them live.  

But as fate would have it, I scrolled down their tour list to see that they were playing in Baton Rouge on October 11. And what do you know, I would just so happen to be in south Louisiana that day. Not wanting to miss another opportunity, I coaxed my friend April into going with me and letting me crash at her place for the night. I was so excited. After a year of playing their songs on loop, I was finally going to see them in person.
So, did they live up to the hype? Absolutely. What I love most about Needtobreathe is the energy of their music. Seeing them live took it to a whole new level.  It’s hard to describe, but I’d label their music as folksy southern rock, with traces of country and gospel added in. I’ve got a weakness for rock and roll and when they add in banjos and harmonicas, I just fall flat out in love.
I don’t want to insult them by calling them ‘Kings of Leon’-esque, because I think they are even better than that, but it’s the closest comparison I can come up with.  I tried to capture some video of the show, but our first row balcony seats didn’t make for great video and picture ops, though it did make a great vantage point for our entertainment. I highly recommend checking out this link for an acoustic live performance that will have you in tears. So beautiful!

One of the most pleasant surprises of the show was opening act Drew Holcomb and the Neighbors. He was really good. Really really good. Bruce Springsteen good. Bought 3 of his albums after the show good. I’d call him a cross between The Boss and LadyAntebellem, but April would call him a non-sleezy John Mayer. His voice is angelic and his singer/songwriter style is right up my alley. Though he performed solo, he is part of a group which features his wife as his co-lead singer. It’s super great. Just trust me on this one.
Overall, I’d put the show in my top 3 of all time. And guess what? Needtobreathe will be making a return trip to bonnie Scotland in December which gives us plenty of time to find a place to stay for both ourselves and the dogs. Two needtobreathe concerts in 3 months. I’m well on my way to becoming a groupie, or a “breather” as they’re called on the tour circuit.  

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Highs and Lows: Tuesday Edition


Hello friends! The past few days have been a smorgasbord of family, friends, and Cajun food which is why I’ve been neglecting my blogging. I figured I’d do a quick update with my highs and lows while I have some downtime before the next seven days which include a daytrip to New Orleans (!), the Needtobreathe concert in Baton Rouge (!!), the LSU vs. South Carolina game in Death Valley(!!!), and a long weekend at the beach Gulf Shores(!!!!).
So let’s go ahead and get those pesky lows out of the way.
Lows:
1.Our flight from Paris to Minneapolis was inexplicably one and a half hours late arriving, meaning we missed our flight to New Orleans. Jonathan was running a terrible fever and feeling just awful. We ended up being re-routed through Memphis which added an additional flight and 4 hours onto our already long journey. By the time we arrived at my parents’ house in Covington, we had been travelling for 25+ hours and were in no shape to visit with the friends and family that were already there waiting for us and the several more who would be arriving in the morning. We had crossed over from exhausted straight into delirium. I felt like a walking zombie for most of the next day.
2. LSU apparently has zero offense and I have a feeling this is going to be a very very long and painful season.
3. Worst. Cramps. EVER. Bleh.
Highs (in no particular order)
1. Belated Birthday Cake.   
2. Temporary puppy dog replacements.

3. A beautiful stroll through beautiful Jackson Square on a beautiful autumn day.
4. Pool time. Hello there, tan lines. I'd forgotten what you looked like.

5. Girl time with my sister.
 6. Seafood Gumbo.
7. Quality time with my adorable, goofy and brilliant nephews.
8. Sibling bonding time.
9. A special trip to Cafe Du Monde for beignets and hot chocolate.

And you? What have been your highs and lows lately? 

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Momma, I'm coming home!!!!

Another Thursday, another 6 AM flight. My third 6 AM flight in a month. Except this time we aren’t headed to Austria, Poland, or any other European destination…we are headed ‘home’!
I can’t wait to hug my parents. And my siblings. And my nephews. And my in-laws. And my grandparents. And my cousins. And my aunts. And my friends. And the family dogs. And Target. Yes, Target.
I will wrap my arms so tightly around the first Target store I see that you will have to pry me away with the jaws of death. I will drop to my knees and kiss the gravel as soon as I reach the parking lot. I will cry tears of joy when I see those Target brand animal crackers in the checkout line. You get the point.
My heart might burst with excitement!
All of these wonderful thoughts are getting me through the tiredness, the exhaustion, the stress, and the separation anxiety that plagues me every time I drop my dogs off at the kennel. When I left them there yesterday, I just kept repeating this little mantra to myself: “I get to go to Target. I get to hug Corbin. I get to go to Target. I get to hug Lucas. I get to go to Target. I get to hug Mom. I get to go to Target. I get to hug Dad. I get to go to Target. I get to hug Clint. I get to go to Target. I get to hug Jamie.” You get the point. My pups can sacrifice a little time at doggie day care for mom to get her family/friends/cheap shopping fix.
As you can imagine, I will be quite the busy bee over the next few weeks as I do the tour-de-south trying to visit as many friends and family as possible, and squeezing in a trip to Hogwarts along the way. I promise to post as much as I can without sacrificing any QT with my peeps…or Target. I love y’all and all, but Target and I, we’ve got some major catching up to do. See you Stateside. Woohoo!!!!

Wednesday, October 3, 2012

Bucket List: Visiting Auschwitz

This was a hard post to write and it will likely be a hard one for you to read. But as difficult as it is to dwell on, it must have been unimaginably traumatic to experience first hand. We owe it to the millions who died to remember their despair in a vivid way.

When we moved to Europe, it was important to us that we make a pilgrimage to Auschwitz to pay our respects to those who lost their lives and livelihood under the Third Reich. Visiting Auschwitz was different than all other items on my bucket list simply because it wasn’t something I looked forward to with excitement, but rather with apprehension, anxiety, and grief.
For weeks before visiting, I prepared myself by reading novel after novel retelling the horrors of that black page in European history. Because of this, I’ve been having vivid nightmares for a month now. But I’d gladly take a nightmare that I can wake up from over the reality that so many woke up to every day in those camps.
And while Auschwitz wasn’t the only Nazi death camp, it seems to serve as a disturbing symbol for the holocaust. But the sad truth is, it was only one of several. Only 1.5 million of the 11 million total, were murdered on these premises. Aren’t those numbers astounding? 1.5 million. 11 million. 1,500,000. 11,000,000.
It’s hard to really quantify, until you’re faced with rooms full of their hair, and shoes, and suitcases, and glasses.
Then it’s hard to stop quantifying it. 1.5 million. 11 million.
A mound of glasses. An individual pair. It weighs heavy on my heart. It makes me ashamed of the human condition.
But then I think of the 1.5 million visitors who make the journey to Auschwitz every year. The 1.5 million a year who remember the atrocities and experience profound grief for what happened here.
How by remembering in such a raw and painful way, we are hopefully  insuring that such a genocide will never recur. That we honor their memory by fighting everyday against racism, prejudice, close-mindedness, and hateful propaganda.
That we refuse to appease dictators who persecute and crucify their own people. That we remember; that we speak out; that we stand up for peace and human rights for every single person on earth.
So with that said, here are some of the images from our tour of Auschwitz and Birkenau, along with some horrifying facts that we learned throughout the day.
A map showing where the prisoners came from. It amazes me how far reached and widespread the round ups were. It's sad to think that even  the French Jews weren't safe from Hitler's madness.
Many of the exiled were deceived by the Germans into thinking that they were being sent to Eastern Europe to start a new life. They were sold plots of fictitious land and even train tickets to Auschwitz. They were told to pack a suitcase with their belongings, which were confiscated immediately upon their arrival at the death camps. The Germans knew that if the Jews believed they were going to be settling down, they would pack their most precious and valuable belongings.
The Nazis were very economical and re-used clothes, glasses, and even hair from the slaughtered prisoners. This picture shows crutches, braces, etc from some of the disabled detainees, all of which were sent immediately to the gas chambers since they were unable to work.
"Work Brings Freedom" was the slogan welcoming slave laborers to and from the gates of Auschwitz. It was a cynical saying, since no prisoner ever earned their freedom through hard work. They were much more likely to die from over-exertion and starvation. Not all of the exiles were killed by execution. Some were murdered indirectly from suffocation, starvation, untreated illness, hard labor, and freezing to death.
The execution wall, where detainees were killed by gunshot.
At first, the Auschwitz residents slept on pallets on the floor, but when the rooms became too crowded, three-tiered bunk beds were added, and two people were assigned to each mattress. Though each barrack was made to fit 200, many had well over 400 living inside.
In this room, women were stripped and their heads shaved before being sent to the execution wall.
One of the gas chambers at Auschwitz.
After killing the prisoners in the gas chambers, their bodies were burned in the "chimneys" housed in the same building.
Though we often think of Auschwitz as the most terrible concentration camp, this satellite camp at Birkenau was even more horrific. This is where all Auschwitz detainees were processed and selected. Upon arrival by cattle car train, they were separated into two groups. 75% went straight to the gas chambers on the premises; the other 'lucky' 25% were used as slave laborers at Auschwitz. Needless to say, those who weren't seen as useful workers were not selected to survive. That included most women, children, infants, disabled, and elderly people.
This is when I lost my composure and started sobbing. Such simple words, but so concise and powerful. This plaque was in full view of the two gas chambers used at Birkenau. In order to keep the Jews, Gypsies, Poles, Russians, etc calm when marching to their death, they were told that they were going to take a shower before moving into their new barracks. To keep them subdued until the last moment, the Germans even installed fake shower fixtures and water pipes in the gas chambers.
When it was clear that the camps were going to be liberated by the soviets, the Germans abandoned ship and blew up the gas chambers in order to hide the evidence of their crimes.
Another cynical sign, as if the electric barbed wire were any more deadly that what was waiting for them inside the camp. 
 
When my friend Pam saw that I had posted some pictures of Auschwitz on my facebook page, she sent me a link to this article in order to restore my faith in humanity. It was a great reminder that humans are also capable of wondrous acts of generosity and selflessness. I recommend going and reading it now, because I’m sure you’ll need some cheer after pondering the slaughter of 11 million innocent people.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

What's Krakin' in Krakow

Krakow was a great getaway for a long weekend, and 3.5 days was just perfect to squeeze it all in without feeling rushed. I got to town early Thursday afternoon, while Jonathan was still in his work conference. I quickly set out to explore my surroundings and fell instantly in love. The architecture. The weather. The parks. The street performers. The food. The shopping. It was like a little Polish Paris.
And unlike Salzburg, both of our hotels (we switched after his conference was over) were ideally situated and an easy walk to the main attractions.  Our second place was an ‘aparthotel’, a little studio with a small kitchen located right in the main city square. It was perfect and super affordable. A comparable property in Edinburgh would have probably cost us at least 150 pounds a night, whereas in Krakow it was only about 60. It’s so nice to travel to a place where the dollar is strong for a change.
 
After checking into our new hotel on Friday, we started checking out all the must-see sights around the city: The Main Square (the largest in Europe)...
The Jewish Quarter...
Schindler’s Factory Museum...
and the Jewish Ghetto...
We had sushi for dinner and then grabbed drinks at a cozy café before heading to bed.
Saturday was a bit more organized. We hired a driver to take us to Auschwitz, Birkenau, and the Salt Mines. It took about 11 hours to see all three, but I still think that’s the way to go. Also, I think it’s best to see the concentration camps first and then lighten the mood with the mines. Trust me, you’ll need a pick me up.
The camps are profound, and heavy, and emotional, and dredge up a lot of soul searching questions about the atrocities that humans are capable of. It was important to me to face the horror and pay my respects to the millions…yes, millions…who died under the Third Reich.
I remained composed for about 3 hours before I collapsed outside the gas chambers and wept.
I’ll write more on this experience in a separate post, but I will say that I would recommend going to Auschwitz before 10 AM and exploring the place on your own. Buy a guidebook and beat the crowds. If you go past 10, you must pay for a group or private tour and you cannot view the museum on your own. Our group tour consisted of about 40 people, and we left at the same time as 6 other groups of 40 which meant a lot of bottlenecking and standing in long lines to see the blocks. It left us both frustrated and impatient, which took away from the experience.
We explored Birkenau by ourselves at our own pace, and I feel like we were better able to make a connection and reflect on the lost lives without a crowd of people around us.
After viewing the 2 death camps, I was exhausted and ready to forgo the salt mines. Jon encouraged me to push through, and once I had 3 slices of cheese pizza in my belly, I was ready to go underground. Here we joined a group as well, though this time there were only about 15 of us.
licking the salt walls
Jon and I are both geeks when it comes to geology, so the Salt Mines were really interesting. By far, the highlight was this stunning cathedral carved entirely out of salt.
Even the Chandeliers are made with salt crystals, and the floor is one giant slab of salt rock. It was a total wow moment and was worth the 2 hour fluff tour surrounding it.
 
After such a long day, we didn’t stray too far from our hotel for dinner, but due to our room’s stellar location, we didn’t have to. Our room came with a complementary bottle of wine, so after dinner we popped that baby open and watched BBC news for the duration of the evening.
Sunday was our last day in Krakow, and we spent it checking out Wawel castle, souvenir shopping, and stuffing our faces with pierogis and gelato.
 

 Towards the afternoon, Jonathan started feeling really crummy (maybe because he licked the salt mine wall?) so we loaded up on Polish over-the counter-medicines and camped out at the airport until our flight home.

Going to Krakow was a bit of a push in our travel heavy Fall schedule, but I’m so glad we did it. We are both pretty worn out, as evidenced by Jonathan’s current bed rest, but we’ve got to push through the next 3 weeks for our whirlwind tour of the American south. Yep, 4 nights in our own bed before we turn around and do it all over again. But you know, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Also, I must say a quick thanks to my friend Jillian who offered to keep our dogs for us while we were gone. I was actually considering not going to Krakow because I felt so guilty for putting them in the kennel for most of September and October. Well, she swooped in to save the day and loved them like her own, even taking Bailey for a hike to Bennachie.

Once again I was reminded of how blessed we’ve been since moving to Aberdeen to have such considerate friends who are so willing to help out in a pinch. Thanks Jillian. I can’t wait to return the favor and have Angus over for a sleepover!